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Showing posts from February, 2025

Week 4 Notes Homework and Videos

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NOTE 1:   PUPPY SHOULD ALWAYS BE TRAINED ON LEATHER AND   COLLAR (MAKE SURE IT CAN NOT THEIR HEAD) OR A METAL TRAINING COLLAR.  NOTE 2 IMPORTANT :  NEVER LEAVE ON THE METAL TRAINING COLLAR WHEN NOT TRAINING.  IT CAN CATCH ON SOMETHING AND CHOKE YOUR DOG. NOTE 3:  FOR THE LURING, PLACE AND HEELING EXERCISES THE PUPPY SHOULD BE WELL RESTED (IDEALLY HAVE TAKEN A NAP) AND NOT HAVE ANY PLAY OR LONG WALKS IMMEDIATELY BEFORE TRAINING. NOTE 4:  EXCEPT FOR" SIT ON THE DOG" AND "PUPPY RELAX FOR EXAM" EXERCISES, 5 MINUTES SHOULD BE PLENTY TO TRAIN THE PUPPY.  IT SHOULD CERTAINLY BE NO LONGER THAN 10 MINUTES AT EACH SESSION. NOTE 5:  TRAINING THE PUPPY WITH THEIR KIBBLE AT MEAL TIMES IS AN IDEAL TIME TO TRAIN THE LURED SITS AND DOWNS, PLACE, AND LURED HEELING EXERCISES. NOTE 6:  ALWAYS BE IN A GOOD CALM MOOD BEFORE TRAINING, AND KEEP THAT THROUGH THE TRAINING.   PUPPY TRAINING IS VERY LOOSE.  YOU WILL GET THERE AND YOUR DOG ...

Week 4 (CHANGED) Sit with Distractions, (NEW) Let's Go (NEW) Ball Fetch

Exercise 1 Circle Sit Stays: ***Set him up with more distractions, and work the rotations around until this can be done for thirty seconds.   If that starts happening easily four times in a row, then you can start widening your circle area. Beginning distraction for the dog: NOTE:  AS DISTRACTIONS AND DISTANCE ARE ADDED TO THE EXERCISE, IT IS ENTIRELY PROBABLE THAT YOU WILL NEED TO START AT LESS TIME THAN BEFORE.   GENERALLY YOU CAN QUICKLY BUILD THIS UP AGAIN.   TRY NOT TO RUSH THE DOG TOO MUCH.   IF YOU CAN NOT A GET A GOOD PERCENTAGE OF REPETITIONS THAT ARE SUCCESSFUL, THAT USUALLY MEANS YOU HAVE RUSHED THE DOG TOO FAST.   BACK DOWN ON THE TIME. STEP 1:   From the heel or random position, place the dog into a sit. STEP 2:   Give the verbal and/or hand signal to stay. STEP 3:  You can either stand still by their side during this, or you can do the movement if the puppy can handle that at this point (circ...

Week 3 Homework Notes and Video

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NOTE 1:   PUPPY SHOULD ALWAYS BE TRAINED ON LEATHER AND   COLLAR (MAKE SURE IT CAN NOT THEIR HEAD) OR A METAL TRAINING COLLAR.  NOTE 2 IMPORTANT :  NEVER LEAVE ON THE METAL TRAINING COLLAR WHEN NOT TRAINING.  IT CAN CATCH ON SOMETHING AND CHOKE YOUR DOG. NOTE 3:  FOR THE LURING, PLACE AND HEELING EXERCISES THE PUPPY SHOULD BE WELL RESTED (IDEALLY HAVE TAKEN A NAP) AND NOT HAVE ANY PLAY OR LONG WALKS IMMEDIATELY BEFORE TRAINING. NOTE 4:  EXCEPT FOR" SIT ON THE DOG" AND "PUPPY RELAX FOR EXAM" EXERCISES, 5 MINUTES SHOULD BE PLENTY TO TRAIN THE PUPPY.  IT SHOULD CERTAINLY BE NO LONGER THAN 10 MINUTES AT EACH SESSION. NOTE 5:  TRAINING THE PUPPY WITH THEIR KIBBLE AT MEAL TIMES IS AN IDEAL TIME TO TRAIN THE LURED SITS AND DOWNS, PLACE, AND LURED HEELING EXERCISES. NOTE 6:  ALWAYS BE IN A GOOD CALM MOOD BEFORE TRAINING, AND KEEP THAT THROUGH THE TRAINING.   PUPPY TRAINING IS VERY LOOSE.  YOU WILL GET THERE AND YOUR DOG ...

Week 3 Play Training Flirt Pole or Tug

   Equipment Needed:   (optional unless outside, then long line needed or ecollar) 6' leash inside for dragging, training collar on dog (even though you won't really be using it, it could be a flat collar too), Flirt Pole. NOTE:  ANY TOYS USED IN PLAY TRAINING ARE ALWAYS JUST USED FOR PLAY TRAINING.  YOUR DOG CAN HAVE OTHER TOYS, BUT THIS TOY ONLY COMES OUT FOR PLAY TRAINING SESSIONS. If you want to know more about play training, check out this series on my business blog,  play training series .  This is more of a series in why it is valuable and things to avoid. STEP 1:   Typically, if your dog knows it, put your dog in a sit while you get the flirt pole. STEP 2:   When you are ready, use your release word "yes" and wiggle the toy at the end of the bungee on the pole like play.   If your dog or puppy are not the most graceful, remember you want them to get the lure.   The object is NOT to keep the lure from them...

Week 3 Behavioral Downs (NOT THE DOWN COMMAND)

  STEP 1:  Place flat leash on the ground. STEP 2:  Step on the leash, but you do not want the leash tight on the dog or puppy.    They should be able to stand if they want, but not get too far away from you.  ***Note unlike sit on the dog we are standing, and also we need to start in a really quiet non distracting area first, whereas on sit on the dog you can get away with being in a much more distracting area. STEP 3:  Wait not only for the puppy to go down, but also, you want their chin to rest on the ground.   Additionally, you want them totally relaxed and not sniffing or still actively seeking to check out their environment. STEP 4:  Time how long it takes to 1st Target behavior (total body relaxed and everything on the ground including their chin) and then how long the puppy or dog remains in target behavior. STEP 5:  Once the puppy or dog lifts their head up or engages in the environment again, wait until the second target b...

Week 3 (Changed) Lured Down (New) Stays (New) Leash Work

Exercise 1 (Changed) Lured Down: STEP 1:    Have the food reward ready in your hand. STEP 2:   While standing straight up (but when your puppy is close) give the "down" command AS you bend from the waist to lure the dog down with the treat. STEP 3:   In the beginning, you will bend and stretch your hand to the ground to lure.   There will come a point that the puppy goes to the floor before you can get your hand all the way down.   This is good, then drop the treat in between the puppies paws (so that they don't pop back up into a sit). STEP 4:    Give the release word "break" STEP 5:    Repeat for 10-15 repetitions. Exercise 2 (New)  Stay: (you can combine this with your puppy sit reps, as long as your puppy consistently gives you sit right away.   If not, keep them separate) STEP 1:    Start with the "sit" command. STEP 2:   If you like you can start have "sit"mean stay, or you can use an additional "...

Week 2 Notes, Homework, and Video

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NOTE 1:   PUPPY SHOULD ALWAYS BE TRAINED ON LEATHER AND   COLLAR (MAKE SURE IT CAN NOT THEIR HEAD) OR A METAL TRAINING COLLAR.  NOTE 2 IMPORTANT :  NEVER LEAVE ON THE METAL TRAINING COLLAR WHEN NOT TRAINING.  IT CAN CATCH ON SOMETHING AND CHOKE YOUR DOG. NOTE 3:  FOR THE LURING, PLACE AND HEELING EXERCISES THE PUPPY SHOULD BE WELL RESTED (IDEALLY HAVE TAKEN A NAP) AND NOT HAVE ANY PLAY OR LONG WALKS IMMEDIATELY BEFORE TRAINING. NOTE 4:  EXCEPT FOR" SIT ON THE DOG" AND "PUPPY RELAX FOR EXAM" EXERCISES, 5 MINUTES SHOULD BE PLENTY TO TRAIN THE PUPPY.  IT SHOULD CERTAINLY BE NO LONGER THAN 10 MINUTES AT EACH SESSION. NOTE 5:  TRAINING THE PUPPY WITH THEIR KIBBLE AT MEAL TIMES IS AN IDEAL TIME TO TRAIN THE LURED SITS AND DOWNS, PLACE, AND LURED HEELING EXERCISES. NOTE 6:  ALWAYS BE IN A GOOD CALM MOOD BEFORE TRAINING, AND KEEP THAT THROUGH THE TRAINING.   PUPPY TRAINING IS VERY LOOSE.  YOU WILL GET THERE AND YOUR DOG ...

Week 2 (1) Name/Attention, (2) Lured Sit, (3) Lured Down, (4) Leave It

EXERCISE 1  Their Name Meaning Attention to You in Distractions: NOTE:  THE FIRST FOUR EXERCISES CAN BE DONE IN A LURING SESSION BY ROTATING THEM.  IF YOU ARE HAVING TROUBLE WITH ONE, YOU CAN SEPERATE THAT OUT FOR ANOTHER SESSION LATER. STEP 1:   Your puppy should be on their 6' lead and a collar. STEP 2:    Be sure you are prepared with  kibble in your hand  BEFORE giving a command. STEP 3:   Say your puppy's name. STEP 4A:     Immediately upon your dog looking into your face (and not glancing immediately away), say your release word "yes" and deliver the food reward as you release them. STEP 4B:    If they do not look to you, first try calling their name again.   Give them a few seconds in between so you aren't just rapidly firing off their name.   If they are just really enamored of something other than you, you could try to gently tug on their leash and see if they will turn.   You could also try to...

Week 2 Sit On The Dog

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Exercise: Sit on The Dog (do not confuse with the down exercise later on) Equipment needed: Metal Training Collar (for puppies a flat collar will due but be sure they can't slip their head out if it's too loose), 6' leather lead (for puppies inexpensive lead or clothes line lead), chair for handler to sit on that they aren't too worried about (IE an antique chair would not be a good idea, especially for a dog that might try to chew something other than their toy while you aren't watching, but a good metal folding chair will do), silence which means no verbal commands, praise, or corrections. Also no conversations of any sort with your dog. Objective and Goals: This exercise starts the leadership portion of dog (or puppy) training in a very non confrontational way. You are defining the space and activity that the dog will inhabit while you are engaged in other activities. It starts the process of showing the dog how to quiet themselves down during certain ti...

Week 1 Notes Homework and Videos

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NOTE 1:   PUPPY SHOULD ALWAYS BE TRAINED ON LEATHER AND   COLLAR (MAKE SURE IT CAN NOT THEIR HEAD) OR A METAL TRAINING COLLAR.  NOTE 2 IMPORTANT :  NEVER LEAVE ON THE METAL TRAINING COLLAR WHEN NOT TRAINING.  IT CAN CATCH ON SOMETHING AND CHOKE YOUR DOG. NOTE 3:  FOR THE LURING, PLACE AND HEELING EXERCISES THE PUPPY SHOULD BE WELL RESTED (IDEALLY HAVE TAKEN A NAP) AND NOT HAVE ANY PLAY OR LONG WALKS IMMEDIATELY BEFORE TRAINING. NOTE 4:  EXCEPT FOR" SIT ON THE DOG" AND "PUPPY RELAX FOR EXAM" EXERCISES, 5 MINUTES SHOULD BE PLENTY TO TRAIN THE PUPPY.  IT SHOULD CERTAINLY BE NO LONGER THAN 10 MINUTES AT EACH SESSION. NOTE 5:  TRAINING THE PUPPY WITH THEIR KIBBLE AT MEAL TIMES IS AN IDEAL TIME TO TRAIN THE LURED SITS AND DOWNS, PLACE, AND LURED HEELING EXERCISES. NOTE 6:  ALWAYS BE IN A GOOD CALM MOOD BEFORE TRAINING, AND KEEP THAT THROUGH THE TRAINING.   PUPPY TRAINING IS VERY LOOSE.  YOU WILL GET THERE AND YOUR DOG ...

Week 1 Relax for Exam

  Relax for Examination: STEP 1:    The owner should be in a seated position somewhere comfortable. STEP 2:   Hold the puppy on your lap on their back. STEP 3:    Any time the puppy squirms or struggles, just hold them to your firmly. STEP 4:    When the puppy is calm ONLY (do not do this while mouthing ET, because we are teaching to be calm when being examined) start examining each part of her body (paws, in between toes, ears, belly as if for ticks, legs ***this can also show you any unusual growths or changes***, teeth, ET). Do this for about a fifteen minutes  while watching TV or relaxing in bed each day.

Week 1 Long Place Started

  Explanation and Goal:  This teaches your dog that you might very well be in a seated position when they are in a place (while the third step has started the idea that you may be moving around the room).  This is tricky for dogs as they usually want to be petted or cuddled when you take a seat, but it is important that owners have time to read, work, eat a meal, and so on without constantly needing to pay attention to their dog.  Usually this is eventually used for a half hour or an hour. It is like a crate without walls. It allows your dog to feel more included, but they are responsible for staying there until released. This command is valuable when you need to move them out of the way to do chores and/or you have company over.  Long place is technically the 4th step in teaching the place command:    First step is intro. Intro is just walking the dog and letting them pass over it. "Place" is said when all paws are o...